A new quilter in Texas (who wishes that I don't use her name) wanted to know how I stabilize a quilt top for quilting on the longarm. Here is what I tell my students.

Stabilizing the quilt and the method or process you use is entirely  personal preference. I think it’s important to stabilize the quilt and here is how I do it and why.

1. I always float the top, meaning I don’t pin the top the top roller. Instead, I pin just the backing and roll it taut between the layers. I lay the batting on top of that and the top on top of the batting. Some battings, like thick polyester might require basting to the backing but generally cotton batting stays put as you quilt.
2. To place the top squarely in the frame, I use channel lock to stitch a straight horizontal line. I use this guide line stitching to line up the top of the quilt top.
3. Next I use a regular stitch length to stabilize stitch across the quilt top close to the top edge. I’m usually too lazy to change the stitch length to basting because this stitch (as well as the side and bottom stabilizing stitches) will be enclosed in the binding and doesn’t need to be ripped out.
4. Next I stitch a vertical guide line stitch and a stabilizing stitch on each side. Order doesn’t matter, generally I stitch the right side first because that’s where the machine is and no reason to waste time moving to the left side. Use channel lock if you have it, to stitch a line to use as a guide then line up the side of the quilt and stitch the top close to the edge. For the sides, you will just stitch down as far as you can without advancing the quilt.
5. There are several brands of centering tape for the longarm and I suggest using that as a check to be sure the top stays centered, especially if you don’t have channel lock. Now you quilt as much as you can in this area available to quilt. I call this area the “working surface” of the quilt.
6. I prefer to stitch my pantograph designs off all edges of the quilt. This is the reason I run the stabilizing stitch very close to the edge of the quilt top. If a design goes off the top and back on, it won’t fold over the top and stitch in a crease. Stitching off the quilt is a personal preference. I don’t like seeing the locking stitches on the quilt.
7. After completing all the quilting on the working surface, advance the quilt and stabilize the left and right sides in the same way as before by first stitching the guide line then the stitching on the quilt top. When you reach the bottom you really don’t have to stitch the guide line but if you think it’s needed then go ahead but you’ll need to stitch the stabilizing stitch close to the edge of the top.
8. The process I use is always: guide line stitch – stabilizing stitch – quilt, each time the top is advanced.  For custom quilting, it doesn’t matter if you start at the right, left or center. I generally stitch whatever is near where I am or whatever I can complete in the shortest amount of time.

There really aren’t any rules and with practice, you’ll find what works best for you and produces the results you want. When I teach, I tell my students how I do things and the reason I do it so they can do what makes sense to them.

Comments

• Students??? Real live students? Does this mean you have some classes set up now??? :) I can't wait!!! :)
  by Cathie on 09 March 2010 at 10:45 p.m.

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